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Linen Definitions to Assist you in Your Shopping
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  • APPLIQUÉ- A surface decoration, sewn or embroidered, or otherwise attached to the fabric.
  • BACK-COATING - Fabric treated with sizing on the back only to give added weight, strength and opacity.
  • BATIK – a process also know as Tjap where areas are opaqued with wax before the fabric is dyed. For two or more colors each preceding wax layer is removed and reapplied in a different patterned layer. A crinkled pattern is achieved by crumpling the fabric and cracking the wax. Primitive or ethnic batik patterns from Indonesia and Africa are reproduced by mechanical silk screen or roller printing on contemporary fabrics.
  • BLANKET STITCH - A closely spaced stitch that forms a line of closely spaced loops at the edge. It is used in embroidery for purely decorative purposes.
  • BLEACHING - Necessary process to remove the natural and artificial impurities in fabrics to obtain clear whites for even dyeing and printing.
  • BOURDON STITCHING - A close, narrow row of decorative raised stitching such as a monogram, finished edge or accent.
  • BROCADE – a multi-use formal, Jacquard weave with supplemental warp or weft woven into the fabric to give an embroidered, often-colorful design. Background weave is often satin. Threads not tied-down are carried as "floaters" on the back of the fabric and indicate the supplemental set of threads.
  • CAMBRIC - Usually a thin, white closely -woven cotton fabric treated to give it a slight gloss. Normally used for pillow and duvet shells.
  • CARDING - A process of cleaning fibers by separating and laying them parallel to each other.
  • CHAMBRAY – lightweight cotton or blend fabric in plain, balanced weave. Yarns are slightly slubbed in both directions. Warp is usually white with a solid colored weft.
  • CHENILLE - A fuzzy cotton yarn or fabric that has pile protruding around it. Chenille is the French word for caterpillar.
  • CHINTZ - Cotton fabric produced by passing the fabric between heated rollers under pressure. This glazed cotton is often printed with figures and large flower designs. Used widely in upholstery fabric.
  • COMBED COTTON - Separates the long, choice, desirable fibers of the same length from the short immature fibers. The result is stronger, smoother cotton yarn.
  • COVERLET - a usually ornamental cloth cover for a bed
  • CREPE - A lightweight fabric with a surface that is more or less crinkled according to the method used. Crepes are made in every variety of fibers.
  • DAMASK - A woven cotton fabric made on a jacquard loom that has an alternating satin and matte texture. Damask fabrics are reversible.
  • DOBBY - Woven on a dobby loom, this fabric can be made with a dot or geometric design.
  • DOBBY BORDER - a decorative woven area generally about two inches for the top and bottom edges of a towel
  • DUVET - French word for comforter cover
  • EYELET - A style of decorative fabric stitched with small cut out openings.
  • EASY CARE - A finishing process using resin, which gives the fabric a smooth appearance.
  • EGYPTIAN COTTON - A long-staple fine cotton grown chiefly in northern Africa.
  • EMBOSSING - A pressure process using engraved rollers and heat application to produce raised or relief patterns on the surface of the fabric.
  • FAGOTTED - A decorative trim created by pulling out horizontal threads from a fabric and gathering the remaining cross threads into an hourglass shape.
  • FAILLE - A slightly ribbed, woven fabric of silk, cotton, or rayon.
  • FAUX - French word for imitation
  • FLEUR-DE-LIS - French for lily flower
  • GREIGE GOODS (pronounced "gray") - Loom state of cloth that has not received dry and wet finishing.
  • GUSSET - Refers to mattress depth.
  • HEMSTITCHING - A decorative stitching along the stitching lines of hems and borders to create an open weave pattern.
  • INDANTHREN - Indanthren® is synonymous with high-quality, heavy-duty cotton fabrics with good colorfastness.
  • JACQUARD - Elaborate cloth weaves such as tapestries, brocades, and damask fabrics;fabric of intricate variegated weave or pattern
  • LINEN - Fabric woven from flax
  • LOCK-STITCH - A type of stitch consisting of two threads that are interlocked at short intervals. A lock-stitched terry does not pull easily.
  • LOOPS - The number of loops in a towel determines its drying ability. The more loops, the greater the absorbency. A cotton loop in a towel is termed a "terry loop."
  • MATELASSÉ - French for "cushioned or padded". A cotton jacquard fabric. The term refers to the type of weave. It is a triple-woven fabric. This weaving process creates the signature raised pattern/appearance.
  • MERCERIZATION - A wet finishing process for cotton yarn or fabric. This treatment increases cotton's luster and strength allowing the fabric to retain dyes more readily.
  • MOHAIR - A fabric or yarn made wholly or in part of the long silky hair of the Angora goat
  • MUSLIN- Cotton sheeting fabric with thread count of less than 180 threads per square inch.
  • NAPPED FABRICS - Cotton fabrics which have been dry finished by raising fibers on the surface to produce a fuzzy appearance. Cotton flannel is an example.
  • PERCALE - Usually made with combed yarns, this closely woven cotton fabric has a thread count of 180 threads per square inch or higher.
  • PLISSÉ - Produced by a wet finishing treatment, this fabric has the look of woven seersucker, similar to crepe.
  • PICOT - A narrow row of dainty holes produced to create an edge or a finished flange.
  • PIERRE FREY - A French company that specializes in designing, editing and manufacturing woven and printed decorator fabrics. Its worldwide success is due not only to the continuing richness of designs it has produced since 1935 and to the diversity of its sources of inspiration, but also to the outstanding quality of the techniques established for the manufacture of its fabrics.
  • PILLING - Occurs as a result of fibers loosening from the fabric surface to form balls of matted fiber particles.
  • PIQUE - A stiff, durable ribbed fabric with an embossed pattern produced by a double warp thread.
  • SATEEN - A weave construction for mercerized cotton fabrics, which produces a smooth, lustrous surface.
  • SATIN - A fabric (as of silk) in satin weave with lustrous face and dull back
  • SCALLOPED EDGE - A border that contains continuous curves finished with bourdon stitching.
  • SHAM - An ornamental covering for a pillow
  • SHRINKAGE - The contraction of a fiber, yarn or fabric after washing and drying. All products made of natural fibers have a tendency to shrink 4%-8%.
  • SILK - The only natural fiber that comes in a filament form, reeled from the cocoon, cultivated, or wild
  • TERRY CLOTH - Type of cloth that has uncut loops on the pile.
  • THREAD COUNT - The number of yarns per square inch in a woven fabric. The higher the count the finer the fabric.
  • TICKING - A very durable striped linen or cotton fabric with a twill weave. This closely woven material is primarily used for mattress and pillow coverings.
  • TOILE - A usually light-colored fabric printed with a scenic pattern or design .
  • TOILE DE JOUY - A usually light-colored fabric printed with a scenic pattern or design .
  • TWILL - This type of weave is characterized by the lines that are ribbed diagonally across the fabric.
  • WAFFLE CLOTH - A honeycomb weave usually of cotton or wool, used mainly for towels and robes.
  • WARP THREAD - The set of fixed threads that are set lengthwise across the fabrics.
  • WEFT - The crosswise threads of any woven fabric.
  • Leblanc Linen Wash We Recommend Our LeBlancŪ Linen Wash for All Your Fine Linens. Endorsed and used by many luxury linen manufacturers and importers, including Yves Delorme and Peacock Alley.
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